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How to Make CLARA Leggings without a Gusset

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When we made the outfit for the Nikita cover photo, we decided to go with a gusset-less version of the CLARA leggings. This tutorial will show you how to make this already simple garment even simpler :)



Many people have asked us if the gusset could simply be removed. The answer is: NO. The gusset cannot be omitted. In order for the leggings to fit, it has to be morphed with the main piece. This tutorial will show you how it's done.

GATHER YOUR SUPPLIES


You will need:

Your CLARA Pattern (all the piece, including the gusset)Some paper scrapTapePaper and fabric scissors (or rotary cutter)Pencil (s)RulerYour fabric / elastic / thread to complete the project MARK THE SEAM ALLOWANCES Along the back crotch, draw the seam line location, 6 mm (1/4'') from edge.

This line will be your guide for the next step. Fold the gusset in half (at the notch and tip) and put it over piece A, matching the seam lines.


Tape the folded gusset in place. Since the paper gusset does not follow the cro…

How to Make a Lined / Reversible CHARLIE jacket

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Our CHARLIE bomber jacket pattern has been amongst the best-selling patterns since its release. People love the free step-by-step video tutorial but many asked us how to line the jacket.

A lining hides pockets and seam allowances, can add a pop of colour to a solid jacket and making it reversible is pretty fun. We lined a CHARLIE for the HENRI joggers pattern photo shoot:



Here is how we did it. This tutorial complements the pattern instructions (included in the pattern and available online).
PATTERN PIECES

Cut your pieces as shown above. You do not need to modify / alter any pieces for this.
Main fabric: As shown in the pattern (jacket + pocket welts)Ribbing: As indicated in the pattern (collar, cuffs and hem)Lining: Two sleeves, one back (cut on fold) and two front pieces For the pockets, use the fabric you want (outer fabric or lining).  ZIPPER
Reversible zippers can be a bit difficult to find and are quite expensive. A good workaround is to use a SEPARATING zipper and buy a REVERSIB…

Show off Your Elastics!

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Many garments are designed with an encased elastic because the technique is quick and easy. Also, it hides the plain elastic. Did you know that you can totally change the look of the garment by applying an exposed elastic instead? Here is how to do it!



The trend is getting more and more popular and goes far beyond the men's underwear world! You can use a wide exposed elastic on pretty much anything: shorts, top, leggings... Have fun!
INSPIRATION / COMPATIBLE PATTERNS  The exposed elastic is flatter than the casing on fleece sweatpants. 3355 would be the perfect pattern for that and can be used for boys, girls, men and women because of it's straight shape.

For decades, designers have been putting their logos on waistband elastics (remember that scene from Back to the Future? :)). The Gerald underwear pattern can easily be made with exposed elastic. Same thing for the women's bikini pattern in pattern 3242 (the men's briefs pattern is already designed for exposed elastic…

Julia Bralette Hack

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For the cover of our latest Clara leggings pattern, we wanted a cute sport bra to go with it. We hacked our Julia bralette pattern into a low impact bra with exposed elastic band and hook-and-eye closure in the back.

We changed a few things but kept the modern design with curved V neckline and delicate racerback finished with foldover elastic, with adjustable straps. HOW TO REMOVE THE DART

On piece C, you will find a small, rounded dart in sizes P and up. To remove it: Using a ruler, trace a line from the tip of the dart to the tip of the pieceCut on the line, keeping a tiny bit of paper at the tip as a hingeClose the dart by bringing its corners together and tapeRedraw the bottom edge of the pieceRemove excess paper. You have your new front piece!

Removing the dart this way will remove some fabric overall. This means more compression, which is what you need in a sport bra(lette). 
PREPARING THE ELASTIC Soft, wide elastic band is not always easy to find. You might be lucky and find so…